Aperi: Muy Sabroso

     

Two weeks ago, friends of ours celebrated a significant birthday at Aperi. They were ecstatic, extolling Aperi as serving the best food in the city. In that same time frame, we ran into a couple—house guests in San Miguel de Allende—who had dined at Aperi with, and at the recommendation of, their hosts. They were not happy, complaining of small portions and high prices. As with Einstein’s relative observers, neither was incorrect; they were simply at opposite ends of the eat-to-live/live-to-eat spectrum.

     At the suggestion of the first couple, we joined them and two other friends (of the live-to-eat variety) for dinner at Aperi last evening. A week earlier, in an article in London’s Independent, Amy Jenkins had touted San Miguel as a “chic gourmet getaway,” suggesting that it was on its way to becoming the “new gourmet capital of Mexico,” and dubbed Aperi the “best restaurant in town.” While questioning the “gourmet capital of Mexico” quip, six of us emerged from our dinner agreeing that Ms. Jenkins had gotten it just right with regard to Aperi.

     All of us opted for the tasting menu, paired with wines, prepared and selected by Chef  Matteo Salas. We enjoyed each course far too much to have missed out on the tastes by taking detailed notes. Suffice it to say that we were served seven courses, not including the amuse bouche (a sliver of smoked duck atop a slice of mango, accompanied by a small, stuffed jicama taco). There were no disappointments, just a stream of outlandishly wonderful flavors presented in a series of palettes fit for the walls of MOMA. These included foie gras, a delightfully fresh and citrusy ceviche, baby calamari served on leeks that (we're guessing) were both sweated in butter, the best pork belly we’ve yet to taste, and a chocolate mouse filled chili on a bed of chocolate crumble (dessert #2).

      When we asked Mr. Salas how many days he could continue without repeating the menu, he insisted that each day is different. All the more reason to return as often as you like. The one quibble we had, and something you may wish to consider if you visit, was with the wine. The next time around, we’ll pass on the pairing and drink wines of our own choosing. 

     Aperi offers an in-kitchen dining option for up to four people. If that’s of interest, make reservations months ahead.