Caffé Milano Revisited
Partly because our grill was packed away and partly to dispel the gloom over the trip’s end, we decided to dine out, and returned to Caffé Milano earlier than planned (see the second to last paragraph of our previous post). Laura Borella, who presides in the kitchen of the trattoria/paninoteca that she co-owns with her husband, Carlo, employs basic ingredients and simple flavors to capture the essence of the food of northwest Italy. On Friday evening, her Orecchiette ail Quattro Formaggi transported us across the Alps and plopped us in the heart of the Piedmont/Lombardy regions. The al dente pasta was the perfect vehicle for the classic piquant cheese sauce and was, for us, a highlight among the numerous exceptional dishes we enjoyed that evening.
Good as it is, the food isn’t Caffé Milano’s only attraction. The wait staff is polite, friendly and efficient; and Carlo Borella is there to warmly greet you and ensure the meal is to your satisfaction. A garrulous man, he wants you to have a good time and will occasionally pass by your table to make certain that nothing is awry, but he doesn’t linger — unless invited.
Finally, there is the eclectic, urban ambience of the physical premises. We love the soft colors and laid back life style of America’s southwest but, once in a while, it’s fun to be returned to the vibrant energy of an international city, even if, as with Caffé Milano’s décor, it is confined to the four walls of a favorite eatery.


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