Jan 31 Final Week in San Miguel
We’re definitely in the groove of life here and the familiarity with the pace of the town is leading to much pleasure on our part. Dorothy is great company and loves to be on the go as much as we do. The weather at the end of January is definitely warmer and at dusk each evening we enjoyed watching the town light up from our rooftop garden perch.
Sunday started early with brunch at Antigua Villa Santa Monica on Juarez Park. This is a beautiful old hacienda that has been converted into an inn on the most prestigious park in town. Our walk to the inn took us by an art show in the public laundry in the southeast corner of the Park. The stone tubs in this colonial washing area have been in use for hundreds of years and the little square remains a social gathering place. Brunch did not disappoint. We had a table in the interior garden and the selections were Mexican and very diversified. An occasional bite into a very hot chili aside, the tastes ran from sweet to savory and the compositions were mostly new to us. Bad coffee would be our only complaint.
This week's home tour (all proceeds of which benefit a children's charity) featured a colonial style B&B built only 9 years ago that looks like it has risen from the site for hundreds of years. Casa de la Cuesta , owned and operated by Bill and Heidi LeVasseur, is on a steep hill not far from Centro. Bill is an avid collector of ceremonial dance masks and his extensive collection is impressively displayed in an adjoining museum – itself, well worth the visit! For a short stay in SMA, this would be a lovely base camp!
Dorothy was keen to have carnitas so on our way home, having finally figured out how to ask for five hundred grams in Spanish (quinientos gramos), we stopped at our neighborhood carnitas shop and got a lovely slab of moist roast pork. A sandwich, on buttered French bread, isn’t the usual presentation for carnitas but, oh my, it was good.
We returned to the art galleries in the Fabrique Aurora on Monday morning, stopping on the way home at the Mercado de San Juan de Dios for a comida of chili relenos at one of the market counters. We all wished the walk home afterwards had been downhill. We also had to make a run to Mega, the grocery store, for bread, wine, and French pastries for breakfast. Very civilized here!
On Tuesday morning we all ventured out to San Miguel's Botanical Garden for the weekly English tour. The 2+ hour docent-led walk was excellent and included a canyon that contains a small pool of "infinite" depth (they've measured it to 3000' and have yet to reach bottom!) We returned home in time to have lunch and get ready for the highlight of the day - our Mexican Fusion cooking lesson with Kris Rudolf , the owner of Buen Café in SMA. The lesson was in her house in Colonia San Antonia, where she presides over a large well equipped kitchen.
There were 18 of us and we all participated in the preparation of the dinner we eventually consumed, accompanied by delicious Margaritas. Poblano peppers were stuffed with a grilled vegetable/goat cheese mixture. Next we fixed a salad of cooked chayote, red onion, and tomato in a vinaigrette. Generous portions of roast pork were topped with a bright red, tart hibiscus glaze. We even made our own corn tortillas out of masa using a wooden hand press and filled them with sweet potato, brown sugar, and butter before frying in vegetable oil. The salsa negra made the whole dish wonderful. Pat had often wondered how those large black dried pasilla chilies become usable in a salsa. The lesson was enlightening. The raspberry chipotle brownies, made by Kris before we got there were a decadent ending to this meal – muy rica!
Pat and Dorothy went shopping on Wednesday morning while Peter waited for the propane gas truck to arrive and fill the tank. He had successfully requested the service in Spanish over the phone the day before and we all had kudos for him when they actually showed up! He met up with Pat and Dorothy for another lovely lunch at The Market Bistro (our favorite, we’ve decided). When we ordered our selections in French (as they are listed on the menu) the Mexican waiter said in English that he didn’t understand French. We all had a laugh with him and reverted to English. Dorothy’s frogs' legs in a tarragon sauce were rich and lovely. Pat’s starter soup, cream of camembert and mushroom, was equally delicious. Peter had the Oeufs Muerette again and still considers them a winner. The Cote de Rhone went well and, as with the whole meal, was very reasonably priced. The beautiful garden in which we ate was again essentially empty except for one other table.
We bid Dorothy farewell on Thursday morning and couldn’t believe our week together was really over. With only two days left ourselves, we still hadn’t been to La Gruta so this was the day! We got a cab out there and spent the day. The crystal clear pools of thermal waters had no sulphuric odor. Each pool is warmer than the last as you progress. The final step is to enter a tunnel of water that goes into an enclosed grotto. For about 20 minutes of each hour, there is a cascade of thermal water into this grotto. All share taking turns under the gusher. We spent the rest of the day lounging around in the lovely gardens, reading and eating guacamole (Pat even had yet another excellent margarita). About 4 in the afternoon, we asked to have a cab called and were told that the phone wasn’t working. Oh no! So out to the road we went, hoping the bus from Delores Hidalgo or a cab might turn up. A lovely couple from Mexico City, who had also been enjoying the spa, stopped for us and took us into town. Phew!
We spent our last day in SMA packing and wandering through town, eating again with Carlos at Meson del Oratorio, our favorite Mexican restaurant. We saw yet another house for next year that was not really exciting. At 3:30 on Friday afternoon (the eleventh hour for sure), Pat saw a new listing and e-mailed the owner in Colorado to see if there was someone in SMA who could show it to us. She referred us to her local agent, Ximena Dominguez, who, bless her, agreed to show us the house at 5:00 pm on Friday. We were both happy to be leaving this alluring town knowing we have a great house to come back to next winter for two months! Hasta el proximo ano, SMA! (for those who know, pretend there is a tilde over the 'n' !)
Sunday started early with brunch at Antigua Villa Santa Monica on Juarez Park. This is a beautiful old hacienda that has been converted into an inn on the most prestigious park in town. Our walk to the inn took us by an art show in the public laundry in the southeast corner of the Park. The stone tubs in this colonial washing area have been in use for hundreds of years and the little square remains a social gathering place. Brunch did not disappoint. We had a table in the interior garden and the selections were Mexican and very diversified. An occasional bite into a very hot chili aside, the tastes ran from sweet to savory and the compositions were mostly new to us. Bad coffee would be our only complaint.
This week's home tour (all proceeds of which benefit a children's charity) featured a colonial style B&B built only 9 years ago that looks like it has risen from the site for hundreds of years. Casa de la Cuesta , owned and operated by Bill and Heidi LeVasseur, is on a steep hill not far from Centro. Bill is an avid collector of ceremonial dance masks and his extensive collection is impressively displayed in an adjoining museum – itself, well worth the visit! For a short stay in SMA, this would be a lovely base camp!
Dorothy was keen to have carnitas so on our way home, having finally figured out how to ask for five hundred grams in Spanish (quinientos gramos), we stopped at our neighborhood carnitas shop and got a lovely slab of moist roast pork. A sandwich, on buttered French bread, isn’t the usual presentation for carnitas but, oh my, it was good.
We returned to the art galleries in the Fabrique Aurora on Monday morning, stopping on the way home at the Mercado de San Juan de Dios for a comida of chili relenos at one of the market counters. We all wished the walk home afterwards had been downhill. We also had to make a run to Mega, the grocery store, for bread, wine, and French pastries for breakfast. Very civilized here!
On Tuesday morning we all ventured out to San Miguel's Botanical Garden for the weekly English tour. The 2+ hour docent-led walk was excellent and included a canyon that contains a small pool of "infinite" depth (they've measured it to 3000' and have yet to reach bottom!) We returned home in time to have lunch and get ready for the highlight of the day - our Mexican Fusion cooking lesson with Kris Rudolf , the owner of Buen Café in SMA. The lesson was in her house in Colonia San Antonia, where she presides over a large well equipped kitchen.
There were 18 of us and we all participated in the preparation of the dinner we eventually consumed, accompanied by delicious Margaritas. Poblano peppers were stuffed with a grilled vegetable/goat cheese mixture. Next we fixed a salad of cooked chayote, red onion, and tomato in a vinaigrette. Generous portions of roast pork were topped with a bright red, tart hibiscus glaze. We even made our own corn tortillas out of masa using a wooden hand press and filled them with sweet potato, brown sugar, and butter before frying in vegetable oil. The salsa negra made the whole dish wonderful. Pat had often wondered how those large black dried pasilla chilies become usable in a salsa. The lesson was enlightening. The raspberry chipotle brownies, made by Kris before we got there were a decadent ending to this meal – muy rica!
Pat and Dorothy went shopping on Wednesday morning while Peter waited for the propane gas truck to arrive and fill the tank. He had successfully requested the service in Spanish over the phone the day before and we all had kudos for him when they actually showed up! He met up with Pat and Dorothy for another lovely lunch at The Market Bistro (our favorite, we’ve decided). When we ordered our selections in French (as they are listed on the menu) the Mexican waiter said in English that he didn’t understand French. We all had a laugh with him and reverted to English. Dorothy’s frogs' legs in a tarragon sauce were rich and lovely. Pat’s starter soup, cream of camembert and mushroom, was equally delicious. Peter had the Oeufs Muerette again and still considers them a winner. The Cote de Rhone went well and, as with the whole meal, was very reasonably priced. The beautiful garden in which we ate was again essentially empty except for one other table.
We bid Dorothy farewell on Thursday morning and couldn’t believe our week together was really over. With only two days left ourselves, we still hadn’t been to La Gruta so this was the day! We got a cab out there and spent the day. The crystal clear pools of thermal waters had no sulphuric odor. Each pool is warmer than the last as you progress. The final step is to enter a tunnel of water that goes into an enclosed grotto. For about 20 minutes of each hour, there is a cascade of thermal water into this grotto. All share taking turns under the gusher. We spent the rest of the day lounging around in the lovely gardens, reading and eating guacamole (Pat even had yet another excellent margarita). About 4 in the afternoon, we asked to have a cab called and were told that the phone wasn’t working. Oh no! So out to the road we went, hoping the bus from Delores Hidalgo or a cab might turn up. A lovely couple from Mexico City, who had also been enjoying the spa, stopped for us and took us into town. Phew!
We spent our last day in SMA packing and wandering through town, eating again with Carlos at Meson del Oratorio, our favorite Mexican restaurant. We saw yet another house for next year that was not really exciting. At 3:30 on Friday afternoon (the eleventh hour for sure), Pat saw a new listing and e-mailed the owner in Colorado to see if there was someone in SMA who could show it to us. She referred us to her local agent, Ximena Dominguez, who, bless her, agreed to show us the house at 5:00 pm on Friday. We were both happy to be leaving this alluring town knowing we have a great house to come back to next winter for two months! Hasta el proximo ano, SMA! (for those who know, pretend there is a tilde over the 'n' !)
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